Thursday, 14 July 2016

Issyk Kul to Bishkek ( Kyrgyzstan) July 2016

Dag 47. Issyk Kul til Bishkek, 250 km

Vi kørte fra Issyk Kul og Raduga hotellet kl ca 9.45, de første 30 km var på meget dårlig vej, men efterfølgende var det fint. Vi stoppede og spiste frokost på en lille udendørs restaurant, som lå ved en lille sø. (Toilettet var så stinkende at jeg valgte at sidde bagvej bygningen i stedet for.)
Cherries and smoked fish for sale - kirsebær og røget fisk til salg

Farmers on the road - Landmænd på hovedvejen

Lunch - Frokost

I dag blev vi kun stoppet af politiet en gang. Eftersom Michael ikke kørte for stærkt, mente de, at han havde drukket Whisky. ( Men det havde han ikke.)
Vi var fremme ved vores hotel kl 15.00, fint sted, men vi havde ikke lige overvejet, at det er 3,5 km fra centrum.
Michael og jeg tømte bilen, eftersom den skal til service i morgen, vi har nu kørt 12000 km siden vi forlod Bangalore.
Bishkek


Vi tog en taxi til centrum, og gik lidt rundt inden vi fandt en indisk restaurant med dejlig mad.


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1st July, distance 250 km, driving time 7 hours

Drove from Issyk Kul to Bishkek.
For the first part of our drive, from Issyk Kul to Bishkek, we went through some very bad roads. I felt really bad because we had washed our cars, as it all got muddy and dirty again. On the other hand I love driving on muddy roads.
Good bye Issyk Kul - Farvel Issyk Kul



Corn for sale - Majs til salg

Got stopped, by the police, (bastards) just once today. They pulled me over, and since I was not speeding, proclaimed profusely, that I had been drinking whiskey.
Little did they know, that they had stopped the biggest ‘whiskey drinker’ from South India. ( I just had a few beers the night before). He even checked my pulse, ( idiot) as if my heart beat, would have gone up, by a police man touching me.
Had lunch at a very peaceful place, next to the highway, next to a beautiful lake, but with a shitty toilet.
Special decor in the hotel - Den grimme lampe på hotellet

We reached the town of Bishkek, at around 3 in the afternoon, and checked into the Garden Hotel. ( not much garden around this, but great décor inside).
Bishkek



Took a cab into town, and after a long, long walk, had dinner at an Indian restaurant. The food tasted fantastic, and we all enjoyed our meal, inclusive of Susanne who ordered Biryani. 

Monday, 11 July 2016

Issyk Kul ( Raduga Resort) june 2016

Dag 46. Issyk Kul ( Raduga Resort)

Dagen i dag blev brugt på at slappe af, og opdatere blog. Vi kørte en lille tur til Cholpan Ata, hvor vi fik fyldt diesel og vasket bil.  Vi købte også en flaske lokal rødvin. Den var desværre ikke ret god, så vi lod den stå på bordet efter middagen.
Issyk Kul

The Roses - roserne

Car wash

Vi gik tur i den skønne park og nød roserne og vandet. Vi mødte nogle Kasakhstanere som lige var ankommet fra Almaty, de havde et sommerhus ved søen.

Jeg har observeret flg om Kirgisistan.
De har mange muslimske gravsteder med store mausoleer.
Moskeerne har Tin/Blik tag.
The Mosque - Moskeen med blik tag

Mange folk tager den på stop her, de står bare ude ved vejen og rækker hånden ud.
The Cherries - Kirsebær til salg

Der sælges kirsebær og røget makrel langs vejkanten især i Issyk Kul området. 


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30th June. Issyk Kul (Raduga Resort)

Raduga Resort was a pit stop for today.
This resort, which is situated by Issyk Kul lake has paths full of roses. Since, all the roses were in full bloom, this reminded me of our house in Thurø.
The system here is very simple, you get 3 meals, with your boarding. So we enjoyed the lake, roses, and beautiful views and even meet a few guys from Kazakhstan.

Issyk Kul

The Kazak guys - Kasakhstanerne

We drove to the local village of Cholpan Ata, where we tanked up our cars, (for Rs 30  a litre diesel). Got the cars thoroughly washed, and bought cherries, which were sold by the road side. This place reminds me so much of Denmark, same kind of greenery, fruits and almost similar food.
Back to the resort where we lazed around.


NB: In USSR times, health spa’s were dotted along the lake shore, and this region were of limits to foreigners, there were also vast areas with plantations of opium, poppies and cannabis around the lake, and they used to test torpedoes here. This lake also has its own version of Lock Ness, and is home to many of the moneyed Kazak tourist, who comes here in the summer for the mild climate and in winter for skiing.

We on the other hand were just tourists.  

Nyran to Issyk Kul ( Kyrgyzstan) June 2016

Dag 45. Naryn til Issyk Kul (Raduga ressort) 253 km

I dag begyndte dagen, med fantastisk morgenmad på vores lille hotel. Vi fik lækre omeletter, pandekager og kaffe, kaffe, kaffe, efter kinesisk morgenmad i 21 dage, var det som at komme i himlen.
The hotel in Naryn - Hotellet i Naryn

Første punkt i dag var at få købt sim kort, så vi kan bruge Google kort til at finde vej. Det blev hurtigt klaret, 16 GB til en uge, det burde være rimeligt nok.
Efterfølgende kørte vi mod Issyk Kul. Issyk Kul er Kirgisistans største sø, som ligger i 1600 m højde og er en turist attraktion for hele området. I Sovjet tiden var det et rejsemål for mange russere, hvor de havde wellness/Spa centre.
The grave yards - Gravpladserne

Beautiful landscapes - Flot landskab

The yogurt lady - Yogurt damen

Undervejs kørte vi igen igennem smukke bjergområder. Vi stoppede for at se, hvad de solgte i vejboderne, og mange steder solgte de hjemmelavet heste kærnemælk og nogle tørrede yoghurt kugler ( ikke overvældende lækre).  Damen som solgte yoghurt kugler forelskede sig i Michael, så hun ville have taget et billede sammen med ham.
Vi kom også forbi en sø hvor vandet var fuldstændigt turkisblåt, fantastisk.
The blue lake - Den blå sø

Vi stoppede i en lille by som ligger ved kanten af Issyk Kul og spiste vores frokost.
Vi nåede at bliver stoppet af politiet 2 gange indenfor 45 min, man må køre 80 km/t her, og den ene gang kørte Michael 88 km og den anden 81, så heldigvis ingen bøde.

The lake with the mountains behind - Søen med bjergene bagved

Issyk Kul’s vand har også den mest fantastiske blå farve. Vi troede at vi havde booket os ind på et hotel som hedder Karven, men da vi kom dertil, viste det sig, at de havde et hotel mere med samme navn, 60 km længere østpå. Vejen var elendig langs hele søen, så vi orkede ikke køre videre, så vi kørte til nabo hotellet, Raduga resort og de havde heldigvis ledige værelser. Raduga ressort ligger i et stort park område, med de mest utrolige roser. Det minder på mange måder om dansk natur. Birketræer, grantræer og roser. De har de mest fantastiske roser her i parken. Vi bliver her i 2 nætter og nyder at slappe af fra kørselen lidt.


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29th June. Distance 253 km, driving time 6 hours

We had a fantastic breakfast, at our little hotel, surrounded by snow capped mountains, in Naryn.
I can never forget this delicious breakfast. We had endured, 22 days of torture, eating Chinese lunch for breakfast.
Susanne enjoyed the pancakes, while I gobbled down omelettes with toast, and gulped litres of coffee.
We meet a bunch of Israeli tourists, who were shocked to hear, that I had meet Susanne in a kibbutz 35 years ago.
Left our beautiful hotel in the mountains, and drove into town, to pick up sim cards, which were almost free, and exchange cash. The monetary system in Kyrgyzstan is, one Kyrgyzstan Som = one Rs.
Leaving the hotel - Afgang fra hotellet

Snow capped mountains - Sne dækkede bjerge

En route, to our destination, Issyk Kul Lake, we stopped at a typical Yurt (tent). These are inhabited by the Kyrgys nomads, who have horses and goats, so they are basically Sheppards.
The beautiful landscape - Det flotte landskab


The lady in the Yurt - Damen i Yurt teltet


Our drive today was to the lake Issyk Kul, which is the 2nd largest alpine lake after lake Titicaca.
 I was stopped twice, in the span of 1 hour, by the shitty police of Kyrgyzstan. Both the times, since Blackie was the lead car, it was me that was stopped, and I pleaded ignorance and begged for mercy, and they let me of, without a fine.
The scenery was unbelievable, as we drove through mountains, with glacier lakes, wild lavender and other flowers. This was the most breathtaking, peaceful drive, except for the, asshole police.
Amazing Kyrgyzstan - Flotte Kirgisistan





We drove through very bad roads, and finally hit the lake on our right which is 175 km long and 70 km wide. Issyk Kul lake, is lined by resorts and summer houses. When we finally reached the resort, that we had booked, we found out, that it was another resort about 50 km away. Since we were tired, of driving through bad roads, we drove to the next resort and checked into Raduga resort. What a beautiful place. This is a gated community, of summer houses and avenues of roses, all leading down to the lake.

Kashgar ( China) to Naryn (Kyrgyzstan) June 2016

Dag 44. Kashgar (Kina) til Naryn (Kirgisistan) via Torugart grænsen. 352 km

Vi kørte fra vores hotel i Kashgar kl 9.30, eftersom grænsen først åbner kl 11. Vi havde en følgevogn med, hvor den nye guide var i. Nåede første del af den kinesiske grænse efter en time, og ventede så ca 1½ time der, først fordi grænsen ikke var åben, og derefter fordi guiden havde glemt nogle papirer. Denne grænse er hoved grænsen. Vores bagage blev tjekket og vi fik vores pas stemplet. Så kørte vi 100 km i kinesisk ingenmandsland, ad ikke så gode veje, hvor vi ca hver 2. km skulle forbi en kæmpe fåreflok.
The sheep on the road - Fårene på vejen

Our guide in front- Guiden foran

Halvvejs ad denne vej, kunne vi ikke længere følge med guiden, hans chauffør kørte som død og helvede. Ved den næste grænse, hvor vores stempel skulle tjekkes, var der frokost pause, så der ventede vi en time og tog en lille middagslur. Videre til sidste tjek post, som var 5 km væk. Så var vi nået den endelige grænse, som er ved Torugart passet, som ligger i 3752 meters højde.
The Kyrgyzstan border - Den Kirgisiske grænse

Så kørte vi ca 10 km i totalt ingenmandsland til den Kirgisiske grænse, hvor der igen var frokostpause, ok, her ventede vi kun 15 min. Så igennem bil tjek, pas tjek og endelig kunne vi købe forsikring og køre afsted i det Kirgisiske ingenmandsland, hold da helt op, hvor er Kirgisistan et smukt land, flotte snedækkede bjergtoppe og lavere bjerge dækket med gule og lyserøde blomster. Nå, efter 45 min kørsels nåede vi endelig sidste tjek og følte at vi endelig kunne køre frit i Kirgisistan.
Wild horses - Vilde heste

Beautiful flowers - Flotte blomster


Vi var efterhånden godt sultne, men besluttede at køre direkte til Naryn, hvor vi havde booket hotel. Vi fandt vores hotel, hyggeligt lille sted og gik en tur i byen for at hæve penge og få noget mad. 


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28th June distance 352 km, driving and waiting time 11 hours

We left our hotel, at 9.30 for the border.
The time difference to Kyrgyzstan is 2 hours.
Our guide had his own car, and we just followed him, for about 1 hour to the immigration border of China. We were first in line here, so we thought no problems, this is going to be a piece of cake. Shit no. We waited patiently, for 2 hours, and every time we asked the guide, “what is happening” he answered, “waiting for paperwork”. We soon found out, that our silly guide had left a few papers back in town.
We finally got to drive through to the immigration, and all we had to remove was, a few suitcases from our car, and walk through immigration. I then had to walk back to Blackie, and drive her through.
Passports stamped, all ok, immigration ok.
This was great we thought, until we found out, that our guide and his driver had also taken their car through. He then said, “follow me” and took of like a rocket.
The guide in front - Guiden foran

We even saw a camel - Vi så også en Dromedar

Sheep, sheep, sheep - Får, får, får

Beautiful landscapes - Flot landskab

We drove at break neck speed, for the next 100 km, through mountains, Sheppard’s with silly sheep on the road, massive potholes, freezing cold and gusting winds for the next 2 hours. I kept up with our guide’s car for the first one hour, and since we had already lost Louis, we slowed down in no-man’s-land. This was the biggest mistake, as a truck coming the other way, drove through a massive puddle and splashed mud and pebbles all over our car. We finally found our guide’s car, at the next Chinese border. The Chinese had just closed it for a lunch break.
We patiently waited in our cars again, until we suddenly found out, that our guide’s car was driving, through the gate. We followed him through this Chinese check point for another 3 km, till we reached the highest point of the Torugart pass, which is 3700 m, to a final Chinese check post.
Reaching the border - På vej mod grænsen

Here again, the gate was closed, but suddenly our guide waived us through, and we were finally out of China, what a relief.
We then drove another 10 km, in no-man’s-land, to the Kyrgyzstan border.
Here, an army officer, in heavy winter clothes, got us to wait again for the next half an hour, saying lunch break. We waited patiently in our cars, while he chatted with us in biting cold and freezing temperatures. He finally opened the gate for our 2 cars, and we crawled into at makeshift hall, which was the Kyrgyzstan immigration and customs.
The process here, were pretty straight forward, and our passports were soon stamped. We bought car insurance for Kyrgyzstan, and it was nice to hear the words, ‘Welcome to Kyrgyzstan’.
Finally Kyrgyzstan - Endelig i Kigisistan

The Yurts

We again, drove for about 80 km in no-man’s-land, till we reached the final check post in Kyrgyzstan. This country is so beautiful, that we soon forgot about all the hardship we had just gone through. We were amazed, by the fantastic scenery, and mountains around us. At 12000 ft with snow capped mountains, lakes, wild horses and freezing cold we descended the Toragurt pass. At the last check point, our passports were again checked, and we were finally tourists in Kyrgyzstan.
The amazing grave yards - De flotte grav steder

Pink and yellow flowers - Pink og gule blomster

Sheep - Får

We dashed back to our heated cars, and drove through the beautiful landscape. Since there were no restaurants in this fascinating place, we decided to drive straight to our hotel in Naryn, which was again a few hours away. We reached our hotel at 6.30 pm, Kyrgyzstan time. Checked in and walked into town, for dinner, at a beautiful restaurant, which served us some great food.